Tony G.
4/5
The definition of a 3-star Michelin is "exceptional cuisine that is worth a special journey". Unfortunately the Spring '19 menu did not meet this high bar, and it is with some consternation that I write this less-than-perfect review, because our experience here was quite wonderful.
So let's begin with all that the Restaurant had done right -- the ambiance, the location, and especially the SERVICE. The Restaurant at Meadowood is itself nestled within the resort, up a short but scenic tree-lined drive. The gate man, the valet, the host were all very friendly and attentive, and we were promptly ushered into a calming and serene location -- exposed wood, solid stone, leather chairs, perfectly placed lighting, Zalto glasses, and even a faux tree. The service staff was superb, wonderful (but also appropriate) wine recommendations by the Somm, followed by a consistent and delicate dance of 6 plates hitting the table within 10 seconds during each of the 16+ times they were served and subsequently cleared -- mesmerizing to watch. Also important, taxes and gratuity are included (and the staff helpfully mentioned this again at the end of the meal), saves one from the anxiety and mental gymnastics of calculating a living wage subsidy, guilty of not doing it properly, or the regret of overdoing it.
TL;DR: this place was fancy a-f, and tasteful at it.
But alas, the crux of Michelin's guide (which navigated us here), is one based in cuisine, and the majority of the dishes left something to be desired. The theme, for the Spring '19 menu, is likely one rooted in ingredients, farm-to-table, hyper-local, [insert buzzword], there is no presentation, no flair, no frills, no pizzazz -- which is something we have grown accustomed to with Michelin "destinations" -- a Disneyland for your mouth; a Broadway play for your palate. This ... was much more simple. Perhaps zen?
Prior to the meal, a basket of fresh vegetables was brought out -- perhaps the same that went into our dishes? We were not sure. On asking why the asparagus is white, the presenter just rehearsed the same line (but I Googled it -- it was because it was sun/chlorophyll deprived -- by growing completely submerged in soil or covering with a tarp, the result is a more fibrous and milder ... asparagus).
The dishes were brought out one by one, properly spaced, interjected with the few bottles of aptly paired wines we had ordered. However, few were particularly memorable: 1. the salad roll tasted... green; 2. the baby potatoes tasted... like my garden potatoes; 3. the beignet chestnut had a good texture; 4. the miso oyster nasturtium (a perennial weed) was fresh; 5. the white asparagus was cooked and chilled to perfection, the pacific rock crab and wild onion flavorful; 6. the escabeche of broccoli clams tasted of al dente broccoli, and fine textured clams; 7. the caviar smoked tendon cultured butter sabayon was DELICIOUS, like a perfectly integrated red wine it just all melded together -- this was the single dish we probably came for; 8. abalone and cabbage, meh; 9. local sole cover crop, meh; 10. duck tea followed by pekin duck, had much better in Beijing, the risotto (specifically noted that it was made with CA rice! i.e. Cal-rose which accounts for more than 90% of rice consumed in the US?) was on the salty side and did not quite showcase the duck; 11. the slow cooked pork collar, interesting kohlrabi texture but taste was lacking; 12. black truffle veined blue cheese with beeswax pear and charter oak bread -- this screamed "lazy chef", the blue cheese completely overpowered any truffle aroma, olfactory or taste; 13. yogurt cultured with almond blossoms rhubarb sorrels - not sure what the almond flowers did for this dish, but the presentation was somewhat pretty, tasted like yogurt; 14. bay leaf ice cream with a chocolate ball over a bay leaf sprig - good and unique ice cream flavor, perfect texture; 15. last bites - cute box, but snacks were reminiscent of Asian grocery store knick knacks.
In sum... good food? Yes. "Exceptional cuisine that is worth a special journey?" No.
